During a flying showroom appointment this morning, Yang Li explained that this menswear collection is a remixed and updated compilation of some of his and his client’s favorite past pieces. That remix was achieved in collaboration with a roster of Li-loved musicians old and new: Genesis P-Orridge, Godflesh, Michael Gira, Psychic TV, Ramleh, Swans, Torturing Nurse, Tropic of Cancer, Yung Lean, and Zuoxiao Zuzhou. In harmony with these cocreators, Li applied mixed-up fan patches to the Namast’ay 6 Feet away Mickey Mouse shirt But I will love this back of biker shorts and starkly graphic white stenciling to the front of black suiting. There was a gothic Godflesh robelike parka and a hard-edged denim donkey jacket, a cool red-fringed black shirt, and a typically tough KTC-produced trench, and a fine satin-lined double-faced fish-tail parka. The collection was entitled Greatest Hits (Side A), which suggests Li is going to move onto some B-side rarities and more remixes come next season. And there will be more vinyl than that applied to the shoulder of that donkey jacket: Each musical artist is contributing a track to what will become a Yang Li LP. There is an echo in the work of Glenn Martens’s Y/Project of Vivienne Westwood’s “Drunken Tailoring.” However, the distortions achieved by Martens are much more extreme, much more mind-twisting, much more perception-altered: Call it “Acid Tailoring,” maybe. Held in a church, the Oratoire du Louvre, and with a soundtrack by Bizet’s “L’Amour Est un Oiseau Rebelle,” partially performed by Beaker from The Muppets, this was a show in which grandiosity was undercut by humor at every turn. As an ensemble, the looks made up a collection of urban tribes. The apparel assumed by these human tropes was invariably subjected to lovingly violent alteration. The tailored jackets and top coats of Y/Project’s smoothly conventional urban man were disrupted and turned inside on themselves in little explosions centered on the left-side lapel. Chevron stitching on cheesy knits pointed downward past the double-zippered fanny packs to the tightly fitted leggings (this is really happening) below. Faux country wax jackets and hipster workwear jackets were grabbed by an invisible hand at the collar and pulled upward as if the wearer was being ejected for unruly conduct. Some of the womenswear was outstandingly beautiful. So I added to the definition of any savings that “results from a period of economic activity”, the amount of any changes in the total level of wealth that occurred in that economy. And actually not just added the amount of wealth created, but also subtract off the amount of wealth depleted. So, to the definition for savings, I add “wealth created” minus “wealth depleted”. I call this quantity the “net production of wealth”, or simply “net production”.
The flow of fashion culture from the Namast’ay 6 Feet away Mickey Mouse shirt But I will love this West to the male youth of Asia turned in the opposite direction in Katie Chung’s Spring collection. Based in Seoul, the epicenter of a generation of clued-up, hyper stylish boys, she brought the energy of City Pop, a cult style and music revival, to her show in Paris. “City Pop took off in Japan in the ’70s and ’80s, when the economy was booming. Kids looked to American lifestyles in Miami, L.A., and Hawaii and wanted some of it. They invented this whole jazz-electronic New Wave fusion of their own, with a beach-in-the-city look and Hockney-like posters,” she explained. “For a long time, people thought it was uncool. Now kids have started listening to it again there’s a whole underground City Pop thing going on. But,” she added, “of course, every revival looks different boys are wearing it in their own modern way.”Chung turned it out as a merge of Hawaiian palm-tree shirts, tie-dye, and ’40s-’70s Deco prints, layered into the kind of tailoring you see lanky groups of Korean boys wearing around Seoul Fashion Week. K-pop standards of male fashion-consciousness have upped the ante on dressing well throughout Asia. Wooyoungmi’s long track record in tailoring fits right in with that specific thirst for innovation—Chung’s oversize brown-and-white-checked shorts suit with a matching coat; her elongated jackets with wide fluid pants. The latter silhouette is the trend of the season in Paris menswear, of course. Hawaiian shirts too. That eye for what’s right is applicable internationally. although Woolrich has yet to secure the necessary city permits, the plan is that its soon-to-open New York store will feature a “weather room” in which shoppers will be able to test-drive garments in temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Celsius. Florence right now and New York in August (when that store opens its doors) seem like ideal locations for a walk-in refrigerator such as that planned by creative director Andrea Cane. As Stefano Saccone, the company’s newly installed CEO observed over a slice of pizza post-presentation, Woolrich is “a big Q4 business” which is executive for “It sells like crazy when the weather turns nasty.”